Shaftesbury, Gold Hill, and the countryside Thomas Hardy loved
The Blackmore Vale is the part of Dorset that tourists miss — a wide, green, agricultural valley of dairy farms and ancient market towns. Thomas Hardy called it the 'Vale of Little Dairies'. This itinerary takes you through the best of it, starting at Shaftesbury's famous Gold Hill.
Gold Hill is the cobbled street that appeared in the Hovis bread advert in 1973 and has been photographed millions of times since. It's still genuinely beautiful — steep, cobbled, with a view across the Vale that stretches for miles. The Shaftesbury Town Museum at the top of the hill is small but excellent.
Come early — Gold Hill is busy by 11am in summer. The light is best in the morning anyway.
The ruins of Shaftesbury Abbey — once the wealthiest nunnery in England — are a 5-minute walk from Gold Hill. King Canute died here in 1035. The museum has good displays on the abbey's history and the small garden is peaceful.
The abbey was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1539. At its peak it owned vast estates across southern England.
Drive the 10 miles south to Sturminster Newton — a small market town on the River Stour. The White Hart on Bath Road is the best pub in the area. Thomas Hardy lived here from 1876-78 and called it the happiest period of his life. His cottage is visible from the old bridge.
The old bridge over the Stour has a notice threatening transportation for life for anyone who damages it. It dates from the 18th century and is still enforced (in theory).
Drive 2 miles east to Fiddleford Manor — a medieval manor house managed by English Heritage. Entry is free. The great hall and solar have some of the finest medieval timber roofwork in southern England. It's almost entirely unknown to tourists, which makes it all the more special.
Fiddleford is genuinely one of the hidden gems of Dorset. Most visitors to the county never hear of it.
The Blackmore Vale is best in spring and early summer when the hedgerows are in flower. The driving is slow — narrow lanes, tractors, and no hurry — which is exactly the point.
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